Construction Process for Light-Gauge Steel Stud and Drywall Ceilings

Jul 09, 2026|

                                                                  1 Construction Process


Pre-construction preparation → Surveying, layout, and ceiling positioning → Drilling holes, installing expansion anchors and suspension rods → Installing edge joists → Installing main joists → Reinforcing the joist subfloor → Installing secondary joists → Installing cross-bracing joists → Arching and leveling the joists → Installing drywall → Installing crown molding → Treating joints to prevent cracking.

 

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                                                                       2 Construction Procedures


(1) Construction Preparation

 

1) Material Preparation: Φ8mm suspension rods, light-gauge steel main and secondary studs and accessories, edge studs, self-tapping screws, rivets, rust-proof paint, 9.5mm gypsum board (standard/moisture-resistant), etc.


2) Equipment Preparation: Profile cutter, rivet gun.


3) Work Conditions: ① Before starting the ceiling installation, familiarize yourself with the construction drawings and design specifications. ② Ensure all required materials are fully stocked.


(2) Measurement and Layout:

Based on the design requirements in the drawings, mark the reference elevation line for the ceiling studs on the wall; this line serves as the baseline for the gypsum board ceiling.


(3) Drilling, Installing Expansion Anchors, and Mounting Suspension Rods:

Mark the positions of the suspension rods along the reference line. After determining their locations, drill holes using an impact drill. Install suspension rods with expansion anchors and verify the elevation of the lower ends of the rods. The spacing between suspension rods must be ≤1200 mm, and the distance from the suspension rods to the wall must be ≤300 mm. Suspension rods must be secured vertically, with a maximum deviation of 3‰. 

 

(4) Installation of Main Ceiling Joists


1) Secure the nuts on the suspension rods and install the suspension brackets.

 

2) When installing the main joists, the maximum horizontal spacing between them is 1200 mm, and the distance from the wall must be ≤300 mm. Attach the main joist hangers to the main joists, install the connectors, and tighten the screws. The openings of the two adjacent main connectors must face in opposite directions. Use a plumb line to adjust the elevation, camber, and straightness; the joists should be cambered at a rate of 1/200 of the room's short-side span.

 

(5) Install the edge joists along the wall based on the marked ceiling finish line.

Secure the edge joists with expansion bolts spaced ≤600 mm apart; the use of nail guns is strictly prohibited.

 

(6) Install the main joists.

Arrange the main joists along the long axis of the room, with 38-type clip-on joists spaced ≤1000 mm apart and 50-type load-bearing joists spaced ≤1200 mm apart; Secure with dual nuts at both ends; using a single nut is strictly prohibited. Ends must be ≤100 mm from the wall or hanging panel, with a cantilever of ≤300 mm; the camber must be ≥0.5% of the short span. Overlaps must occur at suspension points; suspended sections are strictly prohibited. Overlaps must be staggered by ≥500 mm and avoid light fixture locations.

 

(7) Installation of Secondary Ceiling Battens:

Secondary ceiling battens installed on clip-on main ceiling battens must be securely clipped in place; for load-bearing main ceiling battens, secondary ceiling battens are secured using specialized hangers and clamps. The first and last secondary ceiling battens must be located ≤100 mm from the edge battens, with a spacing of ≤400 mm between them. Specialized connectors must be used, and overlaps must be staggered by ≥500 mm. At stepped sections, vertical furring strips must be connected to the edge furring strips using secondary furring strips and secured with rust-resistant screws; at corners, install two secondary furring strips in close proximity to each other to enhance overall crack resistance.


(8) Installing Cross-Braces:

Secure cross-braces to the secondary furring strips using supports and specialized clamps; install them along the entire length of the gypsum board in the 1220mm direction. At air vents, access panels, and light fixture locations, add cross-bracing studs according to the detailed design dimensions to ensure secure installation and precise positioning.


(9) Stud Adjustment:

Conduct an infrared inspection of the installed main and secondary studs, and level and straighten any arched or slanted studs. Studs must be installed accurately and securely, with proper joints; flatness must be ≤3 mm, and height difference must be ≤1 mm.

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(10) Gypsum Board Installation

 

1) Gypsum boards shall be fastened to the secondary furring strips and edge furring strips with screws spaced 200 mm apart, and 150 mm apart along the perimeter of the ceiling. Screw heads shall be countersunk 0.5 to 1 mm into the board surface without damaging it. Screw holes shall be coated with rust-preventive paint.

 

2) Joints between gypsum boards shall be staggered and shall not align with the same secondary furring strip; the long edges of the boards shall run parallel to the longitudinal secondary furring strips. When fastening panels to the furring strips, start from the center of a gypsum board and work toward the four edges; do not fasten multiple panels simultaneously. The long edge of the gypsum board must be perpendicular to the direction of the furring strips.

 

3) Gypsum boards must not be bent or bulge during installation; the long edge of paper-faced gypsum boards must be laid along the longitudinal furring strips; Self-tapping screws should be placed 10 mm to 15 mm from the paper-faced edge of the gypsum board and 15 mm to 20 mm from the cut edge. After the gypsum boards are installed and inspected for compliance, proceed with joint filling. Use an elastic joint compound to prevent cracking: First, apply a layer of latex adhesive to the gypsum boards within a 4 cm wide area on both sides of the joint. Once it is 70% dry, fill the joint with elastic joint compound. When filling the joints, use a putty knife to evenly and thoroughly work the joint compound into the joint, applying three coats in total. Finally, seal the joint with a 50-wide strip of non-woven fabric tape. This joint compound is more elastic than standard types, allowing it to form a stronger, more integrated bond with the gypsum board, thereby effectively preventing cracks. Once the joint compound is completely dry, apply an inorganic coating to seal the surface. 

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(11) To install the plaster moldings, first mark the installation reference lines according to the drawings and site conditions, and pre-mark the corners and joint locations.

For corner joints, perform a test fit to verify the angles; once verified, proceed with the final cutting. First, install the 10×10 T-shaped aluminum alloy trim strips, then snap the plaster moldings into the grooves to secure them. Apply a high-quality adhesive mixture specifically designed for plaster moldings (plaster powder + glue) in an even, strip-like pattern to the back of the molding. Adhere the molding along the marked lines, pressing evenly while gently rubbing it back and forth to squeeze out excess adhesive, ensuring a tight fit against the wall and ceiling. If there is a risk of the molding slipping, use rust-proof nails for temporary reinforcement; promptly clean up any excess adhesive to keep the molding neat. Fill and smooth out joints with adhesive or plaster putty, and inspect the seams and nail holes to ensure a straight appearance and a secure bond.

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                                                                                   3  Quality Control
(1) Once the ceiling finish has been installed, do not chisel or cut into it without authorization. If equipment needs to be installed, use an electric drill to make holes; cutting large holes is strictly prohibited.


(2) Fire protection pipes inside the ceiling must undergo water and pressure testing before the finish panels are installed to prevent water leaks from damaging the ceiling.


(3) In areas with complex piping, valves, and lighting wiring, ensure that access panels are provided and that these areas are reinforced.


(4) When installing light fixtures and ventilation hoods, do not damage or contaminate the suspended ceiling.


(5) Do not suspend ceiling hangers from ventilation ducts, water pipes, or other conduits within the suspended ceiling to prevent damage to concealed piping.


(6) After the suspended ceiling is installed, protective measures must be taken during subsequent construction work to prevent contamination.

 

 

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